Eat, pray, love, shop in Santorini

If stunning views of communities clinging to cliffs and serene sunsets aren't enough to entice you to the Greek Isles, perhaps my companion's change of heart will.

He voiced it while feasting on stuffed olives and Greek bruschetta at a patio cafe carved into the Santorini cliffs. As the sun slowly set, we watched the Aegean Sea gently rock tiny cruise ships far below.

Pierre-Luc Cloutier confessed he'd never believed in Greek mythology -- until now. If not a lasting convert, the Canadian mused how natural it was for the powerful myths to take root thousands of years ago in such mystical surroundings.

Such is the other-worldly wonder of Santorini. One of 1,400 Greek islands, it's the most renowned for its beautiful blue-domed churches perched 300 metres above sea level and picture-perfect views of the cliffs, sea and surrounding volcanic islands.

WHEN IN MYKONOS

Earlier in the week, our group of five indulged in another quintessential Greek evening on the island of Mykonos. We chilled at an outdoor patio overlooking the town harbour twinkling from the lights of fishing boats and distant cruise ships -- in the company of Apollo. Yes, Apollo.

The Mykonos native, a friend of our Transat host from a previous visit, and some pals, engaged us in lively banter about Greek traditions, ancient and modern, as the Ouzo, Athos beer and wine flowed.

Of course cosmopolitan Mykonos is internationally known as Greece's party island, home to Paradise and Super Paradise beaches, where the beat goes on into the wee hours. The island was first favoured in the '60s by celebrities such as Jackie Onassis as well as "hippies" who embraced the Mykonos free spirit.

Today, tourism booms May to October when the island's workforce bulges to 15,000, far outnumbering the year-round population of about 6,000. September is the busiest month for Canadians while August is claimed by Europeans.

A four-hour walking/bus tour of Mykonos Town and the island (35 euros) proved a fascinating blend of ancient and modern history. Pirates, it seems are responsible for the maze-like streets, all the better to confuse enemies in hot pursuit.

We eyed small private chapels housing the bones of family members dug up from church graveyards seven years after death. The bones, explained guide Thomas Muller, were then blessed and washed. He also confirmed Mykonos structures must be cube-shaped, and painted white with one accent colour, and jokingly described Mykonos as a haven for sinners in contrast to Delos, the sanctuary for saints.

ANCIENT TIMES

Indeed Delos -- a 30- minute ferry ride from Mykonos -- is one of Greece's most important mythological, historical and archaeological sites. You can walk among the ruins depicting ancient civilization and be assured none are reconstructions. Ancient stone huts suggest Delos was first inhabited in the third millennium BC. It is considered a sacred sanctuary, the birthplace of twin gods Apollo and Artemis. Today no births or deaths are allowed on the island. (Delos excursion, 48 euros.)

FERRY-HOPPING A MISNOMER

While ferry, or island-hopping sounds carefree, it's not. For all but the light-packing fit, boarding and disembarking ferries can be a hectic and herculean task. Imagine hundreds of luggage-laden passengers herded up and down gangplanks -- and dozens of stairs -- in quick procession. Once on board though, I loved our assigned-seating ferry excursions. The island and vessel viewing is amazing, especially docking at various ports including Ios and Syros. On the slow ferry you can enjoy the sun-drenched deck. It's also a great chance to observe and chat with other travellers, many decked out in colourful island wear.

MADE IN GREECE

It was hard to resist all things made in Greece. Charming crafts, unique jewelry, carefree clothing, original artwork, fine linen and leather goods, greeted passers-by in tempting open-air displays -- day and night. And guilt-free, too, because any purchase is a boost to the suffering local economy.

Likewise the food and wine. From the mainstay Greek yogurt at the buffet breakfasts to the fresh lunches of Greek salad with shrimp, cherry tomatoes and cider vinegar sauce with capers and mustard, to the appetizers of zucchini and tomato balls served with oregano and feta cheese dip to delicious dinner options of seafood and traditional moussaka baked in individual clay pots.

I resisted the omnipresent Ouzo -- served to dinner guests in a bottle with a bucket of ice -- until the last night on Santorini. Lulled by a wonderful week of fine dining, it seemed fitting to give the Greek aperitif a second chance. Alas, it was just as vile as I remembered from my Greek back-packing excursion decades ago.

But, perhaps the only temptation I wouldn't recommend while in Greece.

A MAN'S WORLD

Not once in a week of lunches and dinners were we served or greeted at restaurants by women. No pens in sight either. Hand-held devices recorded all our orders. Courteous shop service was about 50-50 male to female.

MAD DOGS AND TOURISTS

So rife is Santorini's village of Fira, with outdoor eateries, colourful, creative shops set in cobblestone alleyways and gleaming white-washed structures that the afternoon heat is no deterrent. I shunned the gleaming hotel swimming pool to stroll and photograph for hours. Fellow shutterbugs were also out in droves.

HERE COMES THE SUNSET

The legendary Oia sunset off the north tip of Santorini is a huge draw attracting tourists to the best perches and patio seats in the ancient village hours before the big orange ball drops into the sea. It was inspiring to embrace the nightly natural wonder among so many kindred spirits. And the golden set was gorgeous too.

LET'S GET MARRIED

I met the first bride's godmother, not far from Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos where the movie Shirley Valentine was filmed. The British woman and a girlfriend treated themselves to an islands holiday following a spectacular wedding on Syros at the summer residence of the groom's dad. The save-the-date invitation was accepted by 150 guests from as far away as Singapore and Australia. Popular couple -- and destination. Mama Mia!

Parents of the second bride described a beautiful Santorini wedding a few days before attended by 20 Americans and 20 Canadians. Nancy and John Bilheimer of Baltimore said their daughter Jennifer and groom Paul Marando, a native of Fonthill, near St. Catharines, enjoyed an early honeymoon in Turkey so they could spend time with their guests after the wedding.

I spotted another honeymoon couple, atop the volcanic island of Nea Kameni. Americans Yelene Reinstein and William Scott Owen, with five guests, made history when they were married June 1 at the Temple of Apollo, in the Turkish province of Antalya. It's where Antony met Cleopatra, so the couple donned robes of the ancient greats as well as the white dress and tux. (This fun wedding is posted on Facebook. Google: Yelene Reinstein.)

HOT STUFF

Sunscreen, a swimsuit and comfortable closed-toed shoes are required to enjoy a fun boat cruise to the volcanic islands off Santorini (55 euros). I can still hear the crunch of footsteps as we trudged to the top of Nea Kameni. An avid rock collector, I gripped a lava rock for the journey but superstition, or respect, got the better of me and I tossed it back ashore before we pushed off. A quick swim from the boat to the thermal waters of Palaia Kameni was a refreshing treat. (I don't recommend giving yourself a foot massage with the gritty brown mud though. I needed a pedicure back at the hotel, and a good Canadian-water wash to restore my pink swimsuit.) A visit to the tempting eateries of Thirassia was the final stop of the voyage with time for a 5-euro donkey ride to the cliff top for the adventurous.

VACATIONERS PUT HEARTS INTO DREAM JOB

Kate McKenna could hardly contain her enthusiasm. "Just wait 'till you see the other side."

Though we were already marvelling at the spectacular view from the Santorini Palace Hotel, McKenna was confident her travel mates would be blown away by the Greek island's famed cliff-crammed majesty a few hundred metres in the opposite direction. We were.

No doubt that combination of enthusiasm and confidence helped the Oakville 24-year-old triumph over some 2,500 entrants to become the Transat Holidays Vacationer. It's a year-long paid gig that sees McKenna -- and her French-language counterpart, Pierre-Luc Cloutier -- travel to 12 destinations offered by Transat.

The concept -- to promote Transat vacation packages through the eyes of vacationers -- is new for the Canadian company, celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2012, and a huge undertaking, according to Transat national marketing manager Valerie Martin. But it's one that is paying off.

"Everybody loves it," Martin tells me en route from Athens to Mykonos recently. The thousands of web hits for the Vacationers' adventures seem to bear this out.

I met Martin at Athens airport along with Cloutier and Quebec celebrity blogger Dominic Arpin, just arrived for the week from Montreal. Martin was fresh from a bus tour of Turkey, a new Transat offering, and one McKenna and Cloutier would be discovering in a few weeks.

On the 10-hour flight from Toronto, the first leg of our week's "vacation" visiting Mykonos, Santorini and the Plaka section of Athens, McKenna says she enjoys being the Vacationer and appreciates the opportunity to share her experiences. (Her previous job was video MC for the Hamilton Tiger Cats football club.)

Once we get rolling -- hopping ferries, trudging up volcanic hills, swimming in thermal waters, jockeying for sunset positions and dodging donkey poo -- I can see for myself the other side of the Transat Vacationer success story.

It is hours and hours of skillfully shooting photos and videos, editing and downloading videos, blogging, meeting and greeting. Lugging equipment, including a tripod, because she shoots herself on camera is part of the deal, too. Fortunately, McKenna is in good physical shape, having been the goalkeeper for Kingston's Queen's University soccer team, 2005-2009, while she earned degrees in women's studies and education.

One morning the Vacationers rose before dawn to beat the glare of the Greek sun for some publicity shots. Another evening, McKenna was interviewed by Sun News via Skype from her Santorini hotel room. Watch the videos and you'll also appreciate the charm, curiosity and humour McKenna and Cloutier bring to their jobs.

Destinations to date include Mexico, Cuba, Dominican Republic, United Kingdom, Ireland, Greece and Turkey. Check them out at vacationerwanted.com.

IF YOU GO

Air Transat flies direct to Athens from Toronto and Montreal. Our Cyclades islands excursion, which included seven nights -- three at Hotel Kamari, Platis Gialos Beach, Mykonos, three at the Santorini Palace Hotel, Fira, and one at the Athenian Callirhoe in Athens, is similar to Transat Holidays' Island Hopping Zeta itinerary starting at $1,839 per person, double occupancy.

Source torontosun.com